After the Blast: Climbing, Seeing, and Understanding Mt. St. Helens
A raw, readable lesson in volcano, recovery, and long views—planning tips for hikers and climbers
You arrive before dawn at Johnston Ridge Observatory, where a single ribbon of highway cuts through Douglas fir and cedar, then opens onto a moonscape. The crater sits like a scooped-out amphitheater — raw, ragged, and improbably beautiful — steam drifting from a healed scar. The sky is a hard blue and the air tastes faintly metallic; the wind seems to have memory here, tracing the path the 1980 lateral blast took and still reminding you which side of the mountain you’re standing on.
Trail Wisdom
Start at first light
Trailheads, especially Johnston Ridge and Monitor Ridge, fill quickly and mornings offer calmer winds and better light for crater views.
Pack for loose terrain
Bring sturdy boots and trekking poles — pumice and talus make footing unreliable and poles reduce slipping and knee strain.
Respect seasonal road closures
Access to Johnston Ridge and other viewpoints depends on snowmelt and maintenance; check Forest Service updates before you go.
Carry and filter extra water
Summer base temps can be hot and the pumice substrate drains water away; carry more than you think you’ll need or a reliable filter.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Coldwater Lake shoreline for serene crater reflections and easy walks
- •The Hummocks Trail — close-up views of blast-zone geomorphology and plant succession
Wildlife
Elk, Peregrine falcon
Conservation Note
The Mt. St. Helens National Volcanic Monument emphasizes research and restoration; stay on designated trails to protect fragile regenerating soils and plant plots.
The May 18, 1980 eruption was the most economically destructive volcanic event in U.S. history, toppling trees for miles and altering the landscape permanently.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Wildflower emergence, Bird migration, Lower crowds
Challenges: Snow on higher trails, Variable road openings, Cold nights
Spring is a study in regeneration: mud and lingering snow make some trails slow, but newborn greens and migratory birds are plentiful.
summer
Best for: Summit attempts, Lava tube access (Ape Cave), Long daylight hikes
Challenges: Crowds on weekends, High heat at low elevations, Short afternoon thunderstorms
Summer offers the most reliable access and warm conditions for long hikes and summit pushes, but start early and expect wind at higher elevations.
fall
Best for: Crisp, clear views, Fewer visitors, Fall colors in lower forests
Challenges: Shorter days, Cooler temperatures, Increasing chance of early snow
Fall can be spectacular for photography and solitude, though mountain weather becomes less predictable by late season.
winter
Best for: Snow landscapes, Backcountry snow travel, Photography of winter contrast
Challenges: Road closures to Johnston Ridge, Avalanche and travel hazard, Cold and deep snowpack
Winter turns the blast zone into a quiet, snow-scoured place—accessible to experienced snow travelers with the right gear and avalanche knowledge.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Sturdy hiking bootsEssential
Support and traction for loose pumice, talus, and volcanic scree.
Trekking polesEssential
Stability and reduced impact on descents across unstable ground.
Layered clothing and wind shellEssential
Conditions change quickly with elevation; a windproof outer is vital above treeline.
Headlamp (and extra batteries)
Useful for early starts, spelunking in Ape Cave, or unexpected late returns.
Common Questions
Do I need a permit to climb Mt. St. Helens?
Permit and registration requirements vary by route and season—some summit approaches require registration and fees; always check the Forest Service or Monument website before your trip.
Can I drive to the Johnston Ridge Observatory year-round?
No — the access road is seasonal and subject to winter closures and maintenance; verify current road status with the Forest Service.
Is Ape Cave suitable for children?
Yes, the upper tube is family-friendly with basic scrambling; bring warm clothes and helmets for slippery sections and low ceilings.
What wildlife might I see?
Expect birds including raptors, small mammals, and possibly elk or deer in lower forested areas; keep distance and never feed wildlife.
Is the summit climb technical?
Monitor Ridge is non-technical in dry summer conditions but demands physical fitness, route-finding, and comfort on loose volcanic rock; snow and ice require mountaineering skills.
Are there guided options?
Yes—guided summit climbs and interpretive tours are offered seasonally; guided trips are a good way to learn nuanced route and safety information.
What to Pack
Water (2–3 liters), sturdy boots for pumice and talus, layered windproof clothing, trekking poles for balance
Did You Know
Before the 1980 eruption Mt. St. Helens’ summit was 9,677 feet; the eruption lowered the summit to about 8,363 feet and removed the entire north face.
Quick Travel Tips
Check Forest Service road status before travel; arrive early to secure parking; carry a printed map or downloaded offline route; refill water in towns — services are limited near trailheads
Local Flavor
The mountain sits within lands historically used by Cowlitz, Yakama and other tribes—local guides and interpretive centers often incorporate Indigenous perspectives about the mountain’s place in regional stories and stewardship.
Logistics Snapshot
Access: Hwy 504 from I-5; nearest cities Portland and Vancouver, WA; services limited — bring food and water; road and trail closures possible — check Forest Service updates.
Sustainability Note
Stick to established trails, avoid removing geological samples, and pack out all trash—research projects throughout the monument monitor recovery and rely on minimal human disturbance.
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