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Razor Edge of Salt: Walking the Devils Golf Course in Death Valley

Razor Edge of Salt: Walking the Devils Golf Course in Death Valley

Where the valley crackles underfoot and the horizon never stops

Furnace Creek, California
By Eric Crews
wildlife nature, land adventuresFebruarywinter

The first sound is a crackle—like ice in a glass, except warmer, stranger. With each step, the ground speaks in pops and clicks as the sun slides up over Death Valley’s walls and spills light across a battlefield of salt. Devils Golf Course doesn’t roll out a welcome mat so much as dare you to keep your balance. The valley floor here rises in jagged, waist-high humps and serrated fins, a crust of halite sculpted by wind, heat, and time. The desert breathes heat even in morning, and the salt plates sharpen their edges as if waking up to the challenge of another day.

Trail Wisdom

Footing first

The salt pinnacles are razor-sharp and uneven. Wear sturdy hiking shoes and take short, deliberate steps; trekking poles help with balance.

Beat the heat

Plan your visit for early morning or late afternoon—temperatures and light are better, and the salt’s texture photographs beautifully.

Respect the crust

Stick close to the pullout and existing paths through the salt. Avoid creating new tracks and keep your party tight to minimize impact.

No services on-site

There’s no water, shade, or restrooms at Devils Golf Course. Fill bottles in Furnace Creek and bring sun protection for everyone.

Local Knowledge

Hidden Gems

  • Desolation Canyon, a short, colorful slot hike just off Badwater Road
  • Twenty Mule Team Canyon, a one-way scenic drive through pastel badlands

Wildlife

Roadrunners, Coyotes

Conservation Note

Stay on durable surfaces and resist creating new paths across the fragile salt. Pack out all trash and keep night-sky impact low by using red lights and shielding headlamps.

The name “Devils Golf Course” originated from a 1930s National Park guidebook quip: only the devil could play golf on such terrain. Nearby valleys once supported borax mining hauled by famous Twenty Mule Teams.

Seasonal Guide

spring

Best for: Mild temperatures, Photography in soft light

Challenges: Wind-driven dust, Variable crowds

Spring offers comfortable mornings and long golden hours that reveal the salt’s textures. Afternoon winds can kick up dust—protect eyes and lenses.

summer

Best for: Quick roadside viewing, Night-sky stops with guided tours

Challenges: Extreme heat over 110°F (43°C)+, Dehydration risk

Summer daytime visits are not recommended. If you must, keep it brief or opt for guided sunset/stargazing tours that avoid peak heat.

fall

Best for: Quiet shoulder-season visits, Clear air for mountain views

Challenges: Warm afternoons, Limited shade

Fall brings cooling temps and crisp visibility. Plan early/late visits and carry extra water; the salt field radiates heat well into evening.

winter

Best for: All-day exploring, Astrophotography under long nights

Challenges: Cold desert mornings, Occasional road closures after storms

Winter is ideal for unhurried stops and night skies. Check road conditions after rare rains, which can make unpaved spurs muddy.

Photographer's Notes

Arrive 30–45 minutes after sunrise or before sunset to catch long shadows carving the salt. Use a polarizer to tame glare and a telephoto to compress spires into graphic layers. Compose low, letting jagged foreground push into the frame, and bracket exposures—bright salt can trick your meter. On moonless nights, blend a high-ISO foreground frame with a tracked sky for crisp stars.

What to Bring

Sturdy hiking shoes with aggressive treadEssential

Sharp, uneven salt demands protective footwear and reliable traction.

Wide-brim hat and sunshirtEssential

Spring sun is strong and there’s no shade; full coverage keeps you cooler and protected.

2 liters of water per personEssential

Heat and dry air pull moisture fast—carry more than you think you’ll need.

Trekking poles (collapsible)

Useful for balance on the jagged crust and to reduce ankle-roll risk.

Common Questions

Do I need a 4x4 to reach Devils Golf Course?

No. The short spur road off Badwater Road is typically graded and passable by standard 2WD vehicles when dry. Avoid it after heavy rain until conditions improve.

Can I walk out onto the salt field?

Yes, but with caution. The salt is sharp and uneven—stay close to existing paths, wear sturdy shoes, and avoid venturing far from the parking area.

When is the best time of day to visit?

Early morning and late afternoon offer cooler temperatures and raking light that reveals the salt’s texture. Midday is hotter and glare-prone.

Are there toilets or water at Devils Golf Course?

No. There are no services on-site. Restrooms, water, and food are available in Furnace Creek, about 20 minutes away.

Can I bring my dog?

Pets are allowed in developed areas like parking lots but not on trails or cross-country within the park. Keep pets leashed and never leave them in a hot vehicle.

Is stargazing allowed here?

Yes. Devils Golf Course sits within a certified Dark Sky Park. Night visits are spectacular—bring a red-light headlamp and mind your footing on the uneven salt.

What to Pack

- Sturdy hiking shoes: The salt crust is sharp and uneven. - Sun protection (hat, sunglasses, SPF 30+): There’s no shade and UV reflects off the salt. - 2–3 liters of water per person: Dry heat accelerates dehydration. - Compact first-aid kit: Nicks and scrapes are common on jagged salt; include antiseptic and bandages.

Did You Know

Devils Golf Course is the exposed, eroded salt crust of ancient Lake Manly; as groundwater wicks up and evaporates, halite crystals grow and fracture—on hot days you can hear them snap and pop as they expand.

Quick Travel Tips

Refuel, eat, and fill water in Furnace Creek before heading south on Badwater Road. Check the National Park Service alerts for road closures after rare storms. Avoid midday visits from May through September due to extreme heat. Pair Devils Golf Course with Artist’s Palette and Badwater Basin for an efficient half-day loop.

Local Flavor

Plan lunch in Furnace Creek: try a date shake at The Inn at Death Valley or stop by the Timbisha Shoshone cafe for frybread tacos—a taste that connects you to the community that has stewarded this desert for generations.

Logistics Snapshot

Location: Off Badwater Road, ~13 miles south of Furnace Creek; Road: Short graded spur, 2WD usually fine when dry; Services: None on-site; Fees: National park entry required; Time on-site: 20–60 minutes; Nearby highlights: Badwater Basin, Artists Drive/Palette, Zabriskie Point.

Sustainability Note

Tread lightly on the fragile salt; even short detours can scar the crust for years. Practice dark-sky etiquette at night by shielding lights and using red illumination so others—and wildlife—can enjoy the stars.

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Razor Edge of Salt: Walking the Devils Golf Course in Death Valley
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Razor Edge of Salt: Walking the Devils Golf Course in Death Valley

At Devils Golf Course, the ground pops and crackles as if the desert itself is speaking. This jagged salt plain in Death Valley turns a short stop into a full-body encounter with geology, light, and heat—an essential detour that feels like an expedition.

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